Whose Sleeves?

more than the color of the flower, the fragrance
delights my senses -
whose scented sleeve brushed against
the plum blossoms near my house

• This six-panel folding screen from the late sixteenth century was one of many that reflected the idea of Tagasode (Whose Sleeves?). The phrase first appeared in the Kokinshu anthology, completed in 920. The anonymous poem, written above, refers to the Heian custom of scenting sleeves with incense, and pretending that your lover’s perfume on your own robes was nothing more than the result of picking flowers.

• The Kenzo Spring 2013 Collection was inspired by utility gear and the jungles of Thailand.

• The Margiela Spring 2013 Couture Collection included one piece that started with a hoodie collar but cascaded into a 20s style evening dress.

• Seiko Kinoshita’s Grasp combines paper yarn, copper wire, linen, and wood. Watch this video to see how she works with textiles in her studio.

• Tamami’s Bag is covered in mustard-colored obi fabric.

• Cécile’s Brooch is made of raw silk ribbons layered in brown and chartreuse.

• Jane Porter’s Scarf is made from a pale-yellow vintage kimono with a pattern of colorful fans.

• Michele’s Scarf is chocolate-brown kimono silk with a crinkled texture and beaded stitching.

• Kimokame’s Bag is made of vintage obi fabric in peachy gold with a rich pattern of flowers.

• This Hairpin by Atelier Kanawa is a maple leaf made in a style that dates back to the Edo period.

• Cherie’s Pillows are covered in late nineteenth century Japanese brocade.

• Alexander’s Jacket is made of a complex network of panels in golden and rust-red patterns.