Messy delicacies

Some flavors stay with you in the sense that you can call upon that particular taste years later. The hot blend of beans and cheese seems simple enough, but only Tito’s Tacos in L.A. knows how to make it right. You can watch this burrito being put together through a glass window, and the process only takes a few seconds: one ladle of beans spread out a little, the cheese on top, and some skilled folding. The concept of the burrito is often taken a little too far. Rice, guacamole, peppers, and whatnot are often piled in. Save it for other things, please. The best is still the bean and cheese duo. I have yet to find a decent burrito in New York, much to my disappointment. New York can do every cuisine except Mexican, which still baffles me (I wish to be proven wrong, of course).

The chips are quite hard, and the salsa very mild, but the burrito still takes the top spot.

The process of getting in line to order in front of a window and then eating the food on a nearby table in the sweltering California heat is something I much prefer to white tablecloth and classical music.